Nearly a year has passed since we embarked on our eagerly anticipated motorhome tour of the Norwegian fjords. As we gear up for a return journey that will take us even further north, I find myself reminiscing about last year’s incredible expedition.
Norway is fast gaining popularity, particularly among motorhome travellers. So, rather than sharing tips individually with friends and acquaintances who’ve been asking, I’ve decided to compile a list based on our experiences. Here’s part one:
Kick-off in Kristiansand
If you’re visiting Norway for the first time, the ideal way to do it is from the very beginning – starting from the southernmost entry point, Kristiansand. This requires some foresight as you need to book your Hirtshals-Kristiansand ferry tickets in advance. Fjord Line is a fantastic option.
Kristiansand is a wonderful place to spend the night and familiarise yourself with Norway’s allure. We particularly enjoyed wandering through the historic centre, known as Kvadraturen, with its white wooden houses, and the old city harbour.
We parked overnight on the serene Odderøya island, which is becoming even more appealing due to the new Kunstsilo museum. This former grain silo has been transformed into one of Northern Europe’s most innovative hubs for art and cultural experiences. It houses the world’s largest collection of Nordic modernism and offers a fresh perspective on Nordic culture. Judging by the photos and videos posted on Visit Norway’s Instagram profile, it’s a must-visit site for the architecture alone.
Brace for winding roads (and police checks)
I wouldn’t go as far as saying that driving in Norway is stressful (easy for me to say, my husband did most of it 😊), but some stretches of the road are very narrow, and not knowing what’s coming towards you can be a bit intimidating, even from the passenger seat. Parts of the road to Kjerag (especially the last 20 or so km), the Ryfylke Scenic Route (between Sauda and Horda), as well as the last part of the road across the high mountain plateau towards Trollstigen, remain etched in my memory as “how much narrower can it get”? Whatever you do, adhere to the traffic rules and speed limits. We paid the equivalent of a nice dinner for exceeding the speed limit by only 7 km/h just outside Kristiansand.
Pair Kjeragbolten with a Lysefjord ferry trip
Kjeragbolten at one end, Preikestollen at the other, and a whole lot of breathtaking scenery in between – that’s Lysefjord, very likely the first proper fjord you’ll encounter if you’re starting your trip from Kristiansand. Navigating down the 27 hairpin bends on the Lysevegen road must be an adventure in itself. But bear in mind, the only other alternative to exit the fjord is a ferry ride from Lysebotn to Lauvvik. Since the ferry only operates between 15 June and 20 August, we had to give this one a miss. Otherwise, I would love to stay in Lysebotn for a peaceful night and then climb the Florli stairs the next day before leaving the fjord.
Use your wheels to dodge cruise ships
The fjords are quite spectacular, steep narrow valleys unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The only thing obstructing the views in some of the most famous representatives of this unique natural phenomenon are gigantic cruise ships disgorging hordes of noisy tourists on e-bikes. If you’ve come for unspoilt nature, this might spoil it for you. Geirangerfjord, Flam, and Eidfjord are three such examples:
- We passed Geirangerfjord with only a brief stop to snap some pictures (it is beautiful, but we didn’t want to battle for a parking spot),
- had the chance to see Eidfjord with and without a big cruise ship parked essentially in everyone’s front yard (definitely preferred the latter);
- as for Flam – if you really want to go on that train ride, do it, but otherwise, Undredal and Gudvangen are much prettier and quieter. This also holds true for numerous other fjords I’d choose before ticking off “the must-see” ones.
Give your motorhome a rest and hop on a train…
The train ride from Bergen to Flam is probably one of the most renowned train rides in all of Norway. Voss is approximately halfway in between. We took advantage of doing our laundry in the well-equipped Voss Camping (things you have to do while on the road) and then combined this with a train trip to Bergen. This saved us the hassle of finding a parking spot, bringing us directly into the city centre.
…or a ferry
The Gudvangen to Kaupanger ferry ride is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque ferry experiences you might have. The first part through the narrow Nærøyfjord with its steep cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and lush green landscapes is simply stunning. The whole trip takes about 2.5 hours and starts by reversing your motorhome onto the ferry that only allows about 20 cars on board. This means you have to book in advance, but also guarantees a peaceful, uncrowded experience.
So there you have it, this is my first instalment of random tips for an unforgettable motorhome journey of Fjord Norway. Stay tuned for the long overdue list of my favourite hikes and sights 😊
Travel-Sehnsucht 